Mallorca Deia & Soller
Deia. 9 km southwest of Soller.
Laid-back Deia (Deya in Castilian Spanish) was made famous by the English poet and writer Robert Graves, who lived here from 1929 until his death in 1985. The village cafe, on Deia's main drag, up some steps on the left as you enter town, is still a favorite haunt of writers and artists, such as Graves's son, Tomas Graves, author of P'amb oli (Bread and Olive Oil), a guide to Majorcan cooking. Relaxing on the cafe's terrace, shaded by a roof of vines and branches, is one of the nicest ways to soak up Deia. In the distance, you can see Deia's green-shutter stone houses against the backdrop of the Sierra de Tramuntana. There's live jazz on summer evenings.
On warm afternoons, literati gather at the beach bar in the rocky cove 2 km (1 mi) downhill from the village. From here, walk up the narrow street, lined with the stations of the cross, to the village church; the small cemetery behind it affords views of mountains terraced with olive trees and of the coves below. It's a fitting spot for Graves's final resting place, which is in a quiet corner beneath a simple slab.
Soller. 30 km north of Palma.
Soller is a rough but cozy gray-stone town with both a maritime and a mountain sensibility. Find your way to the Placa Constitucio, dominated by the cathedral; arm yourself with a map at the tourist office; in the ajuntament; and hop a tram down to the Port de Soller.
A word of advice…
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